A week in Mexico, 40 years ago
By Peter van Oostrum
Back in 1979, as a young student, I had been working on a freelance basis at Martinair for a couple of years when I met a co-worker and fellow aircraft enthusiast. He had just returned from a trip to South America and showed me great pictures of many classic aircraft in Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador and Panama. At this time my knowledge of aircraft in this region was limited to the information and black and white pictures in my original 1974 JP book as well as various old editions of Esso Air World. Thus, the colorful pictures of C-46s at La Paz, DC-3s at Villavicencio and the corrosion corner of props and jets at Tocumen, Panama and all those other nice aircraft and exotic locations struck a chord: I just had to go there myself and experience it all.
After talking to other, more experienced travelers to the region during the next couple of years a plan evolved to not just visit the classic propliner heavens, but also take in a number of other countries. Finally, late 1981 it looked like my savings would last for a couple of months and I decided I could postpone my studies for a while starting early March 1982. Then my girlfriend – and now my wife – decided she needed a break. Long story short, we booked tickets to Los Angeles; after a month she would go home and back to work and I would go south into Mexico.
After talking to other, more experienced travelers to the region during the next couple of years a plan evolved to not just visit the classic propliner heavens, but also take in a number of other countries. Finally, late 1981 it looked like my savings would last for a couple of months and I decided I could postpone my studies for a while starting early March 1982. Then my girlfriend – and now my wife – decided she needed a break. Long story short, we booked tickets to Los Angeles; after a month she would go home and back to work and I would go south into Mexico.
So it happened that on Sunday, April 4th 1982 I walked across the border at San Ysidro into Tijuana. A short taxi ride brought me to the local airport. Unlike nowadays, the airfield did not have any airliners present, but it did have a few interesting propliners. Sitting on the ramp was DC-3 XA-HOE. In order to get a decent picture I made enquiries in the control tower and was quickly invited to go up and take pictures from above. This probably wouldn’t happen nowadays. In the end walking on the ramp was no issue. XA-HOE was built as a C-47A with MSN 19662 and later converted to DC-3 standard. Later the aircraft was modified with Vista windows. The aircraft was operated as N208R out of Long Beach, CA in the late 70s, but its subsequent history is vague with various sources claiming it only became XA-HOE in 1987, after a spell as N32342. The other aircraft of note, or rather what was left of it, was Convair 240 XA-SOX, MSN 120. As it was very much a wreck, I didn’t take any pictures.
La Paz airport, BCS Baja California
Another cab back to the long-distance bus station, where I bought a ticket for a 24 hours bus ride with “Tres Estrellas de Oro” (three golden stars) to the city of La Paz BCS or Baja California del Sur. My 1981 JP mentioned 2x DC-3 operators based at La Paz, while the airfield would also be an active Mexican Navy base, so La Paz seemed a worthwhile stop on my way to Mexico City. Little did I know what would be welcoming me after 24 hours.
After a night’s sleep in the reclining seats of the former Trailways bus from a bygone era I was caught by surprise when we drove past the airfield of Guerrero Negro. After quickly taking the bins out all-white DC-3 XA-VIZ (MSN 9726) and Beechcraft E18S XA-BEK were noticed. The Beech (MSN BA-1) is of note since it is the first E18S and was the original company demonstrator back in 1953. After a quick stop downtown the bus continued to La Paz, BCS, where it arrived close to midnight. Sleeping out in the open air I got to the airport soon after sunrise where a sight to behold greeted me: no less than 8 x DC-3s could be observed on the ramp, while five Grumman Albatross amphibians were noted around the Mexican Navy hangars.
Since the Navy appeared to be the main operator, I went to their main gate and explained about this “aficionado aeronáutico de Holanda” wishing to take some pictures. After a quick phone call my request was granted! Three Albatross were operational: MP-306, MP-401 and MP-405. Withdrawn from use were: MP-402 and MP-404. These 2 aircraft, in a dismantled state, have been observed at Lakeport, CA until at least 2009. Except for MP-306, which is ex BuNo 141283, the history of all these aircraft is very vague. When I made a return visit to La Paz in 1989 only MP-402 and MP-404 were noted, in a derelict state.
After a night’s sleep in the reclining seats of the former Trailways bus from a bygone era I was caught by surprise when we drove past the airfield of Guerrero Negro. After quickly taking the bins out all-white DC-3 XA-VIZ (MSN 9726) and Beechcraft E18S XA-BEK were noticed. The Beech (MSN BA-1) is of note since it is the first E18S and was the original company demonstrator back in 1953. After a quick stop downtown the bus continued to La Paz, BCS, where it arrived close to midnight. Sleeping out in the open air I got to the airport soon after sunrise where a sight to behold greeted me: no less than 8 x DC-3s could be observed on the ramp, while five Grumman Albatross amphibians were noted around the Mexican Navy hangars.
Since the Navy appeared to be the main operator, I went to their main gate and explained about this “aficionado aeronáutico de Holanda” wishing to take some pictures. After a quick phone call my request was granted! Three Albatross were operational: MP-306, MP-401 and MP-405. Withdrawn from use were: MP-402 and MP-404. These 2 aircraft, in a dismantled state, have been observed at Lakeport, CA until at least 2009. Except for MP-306, which is ex BuNo 141283, the history of all these aircraft is very vague. When I made a return visit to La Paz in 1989 only MP-402 and MP-404 were noted, in a derelict state.
The main civil operator at La Paz was AERO CALIFORNIA. Three of their DC-3s were on the ramp: XA-JAE, XA-JIE AND XA-IOR, as well as their Convair 340 XA-DOX. XA-JAE (MSN 4961) had been built for PanAm, but transferred to the USAAF as a C-53. The aircraft has been in registered with various operators in Mexico since 1949. XA-JIE (MSN 9049) is an ex-RAF Dakota, which later served in the US and Canada. It has the enlarged Viewmaster windows which will have been an asset when doing whale-watching flights along the Baja California coast. Finally, XA-IOR was also noted, but not photographed for some reason. Having MSN 1547 it must have been one of the oldest original DC-3s in existence. Convair 340 XA-DOX (MSN 222) was undergoing some maintenance on the ramp. It would later depart for ‘Los Mochis’, across the Gulf of California.
The other civil operator at La Paz was Aerolineas de Pacifico. Their two operational DC-3s were sitting on the ramp. XA-SUY is an original DC-3 with MSN 2219, which had been in service with them since 1968. Also on the ramp was XA-HOI a DC-3 in seemingly pristine condition. This aircraft is believed to be MSN 4807. Its Viewmaster windows and original passenger door are noteworthy. (see weblink: https://ruudleeuw.com/search141.htm) Out in a corner was dilapidated XA-TEH (MSN 19057), which had served the airline since 1969. Looking at the airline logo on the fin, I’m sure the designer must have been influenced by the 1960s Aerolineas Argentinas logo. Parked nearby was equally derelict XB-FOO (MSN 4491). This aircraft was built as a C-47-DL and had been operating in Mexico since 1947. The last operator was a fishing company, which explains the corporate-use prefix XB, rather than XA, which denotes a commercial – or private - operator. By the way, the XC prefix denotes a federal or local government operator. The 8th and final DC-3 present was XB-GUI (MSN 2130), an original DC-3A built in 1939 for Northwest. After a spell in Taiwan and a variety of US owners it ended up in Mexico in 1968 with a private operator, which at some point in time adorned it with Flying Sportsmen Club titles.
Next to all of these big props a couple of Beech 18s could be observed. UC-45J XA-TAG appeared it had recently been retired by AERO CALIFORNIA, though it didn’t have the nice color scheme as on the DC-3s. Privately owned D18S XB-AUW was operational showing four capital letters A on its fin. Finally, a couple of Mexican Navy Hueys, a Cessna 337 and 3 Mexican Air Force PC-7s were also noted.
Mexico City’s Benito Juárez airport
Early afternoon I had to make my way back to the city to arrange onward transportation to the Mexican mainland. My best bet, other than flying which would have stretched my budget, was to take an overnight ferry to Mazatlán and then catch a long-distance bus to Mexico City. Overnight in fact meant an 18 hour crossing while sleeping on the metal deck to be awakened by the smell of diesel fumes, industrial oils and cooking tamales – an interesting experience. A brief visit to Mazatlán airport yielded the remains of Beech D18S N473E, which had been wrecked by cyclone Olivia in 1975.
After another night sleeping on the bus I finally made it to Mexico City’s Benito Juárez airport. The terminal building, on the north-western side of the airport didn’t appear to have any vantage points early in the morning, so I started walking towards the other side of the runway where most of the interesting aircraft were parked anyway. Much to my surprise I could easily walk through the main gate and into the maze of little roads to maintenance areas and ramps of the various operators based there. One of the more prominent operators was Pemex, short for “Petróleos Mexicanos”. No problem to access their ramp, where Fairchild 227B XC-LPG and L-100 Hercules XC-EXP could be seen, in addition to several Puma helicopters and various bizjets. Another state operator was CFE, or “Comisión Federal de Electricidad” (CFE), of which a couple of Gulfstream 1s, various bizjets and many helicopter types could be seen and photographed. Parked right next to CFE was Lockheed L-188A(PF) XB-CWX. Supposedly, this is MSN 1056, the former XC-HEB and XC-CFE. I still can’t explain why it has a green cheatline, whereas XC-HEB previously had a yellow (i.e. CFE) cheatline and XC-HEB also was present at Miami in the mid 80s with the same yellow cheatline. In other words, is XB-CWX really MSN 1056?
Another Electra present was TP-201, also registered XC-UTA, operated by the Mexican Government or formally “Estados Unidos Mexicanos” (EUM). Many more EUM aircraft could be seen including a couple of Puma helicopters, a DHC-5 Buffalo, King Air, Islander, Metroliner, 3 Sabreliners, a couple of Short Skyvans and both presidential 727s. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get anywhere close to any of these aircraft. Preserved on top of the main gate to the EUM ramp and hangars was Dakota ‘XC-MEX’. Among its former operators were the RAF and Pemex.
On the adjacent “Fuerza Aérea Mexicana” (FAM) ramp four of their DC-3s could be seen. While TED-6023 and TED-6024) were tucked away in a corner, TED-6035 and TED-6037 could even be photographed with some difficulty. The TED-prefix means “Transporte Ejecutivo” Douglas. Unfortunately, MSNs for all four DC-3s are still unknown. Other FAM aircraft present included 2 DC-6s ETP-10010 and ETP-10020, another - unidentified - DC-6 in a camouflage color scheme, various Pilatus PC-7 trainers and three short-fuselage 727s. The Mexican Navy, marked as Armada de México, also had a small facility at the airport and DHC-5 Buffalo MT-220 could be observed as well as Fairchild F27 MT-205.
On the adjacent “Fuerza Aérea Mexicana” (FAM) ramp four of their DC-3s could be seen. While TED-6023 and TED-6024) were tucked away in a corner, TED-6035 and TED-6037 could even be photographed with some difficulty. The TED-prefix means “Transporte Ejecutivo” Douglas. Unfortunately, MSNs for all four DC-3s are still unknown. Other FAM aircraft present included 2 DC-6s ETP-10010 and ETP-10020, another - unidentified - DC-6 in a camouflage color scheme, various Pilatus PC-7 trainers and three short-fuselage 727s. The Mexican Navy, marked as Armada de México, also had a small facility at the airport and DHC-5 Buffalo MT-220 could be observed as well as Fairchild F27 MT-205.
Another beauty sitting on the main ramp was former Mexicana DeHavilland Comet 4C N777WA, though this registration was not carried. A few years later this aircraft ended up in a zoo where it was finally scrapped in 2015. Such a shame as it would have been a marvelous exhibit in a Mexican aviation museum. Parked alongside the Comet was a C-47 in an attractive white & red color scheme but without visible registration. Supposedly, this was XA-MOL of which very little is known. Sitting next to XA-MOL was a different representative of the early jet age: DC-8-21(F) XA-LSA, operated by AeroLeon. Four Aeroméxico DC-8-51s were also noted throughout the day.
Also present in the maintenance area was Vickers Viscount VC-745D XA-MIJ. Formerly N7419, this aircraft was operated by “Aerolineas República” for only a short period from November 1981 to May 1982. Unfortunately it did not carry any titles. Another regional carrier in Mexico was Interestatal. Their Convair 440 XA-JIR was undergoing maintenance and I wasn’t able to take a decent picture of it. Only much later did I find out I had actually seen the airframe before, registered as N819TA in the colors of Lineas Aereas Guinea Ecuatorial, back in 1979 at Miami airport.
There were also a number of active Beech 18s parked at the various ramps. Privately owned XB-CFN was a rare Dumod Infinite I tri-gear conversion, while XB-BLF and N9490Z were regular C-45s.After having walked the better part of the day on the south-eastern ramps it was time to check out the terminal side of the field. A pretty long walk in the heat brought me to a parking lot adjacent to a dump area somewhat north of the terminal building. In it were Convair 880 N888SR, Lockheed L18-56 N313 and DC-3 N37737. With a bit of effort these could even be photographed. While doing so I was somewhat harassed by two youths who desperately wanted me to taste whatever liquid they had in a bottle. But this gringo didn’t want to try their home-brew tequila or whatever concoction they had. Even had to make a run for it to escape their unwanted attention. Next stop, just outside the airport, was the Wings restaurant DC-4M, which is a rare version equipped with Rolls-Royce Merlin engines. Time to go to the city center in order to make a reservation for a bus ticket to Oaxaca, my next destination and base for a number of DC-3s
Flight Mexico City to Tapachula
However, little did I know about the Mexican custom people travelling to their relatives during “Semana Santa”, the week leading up to Easter three days later. In short, all buses going out of Mexico City to anywhere were fully booked. Consequently I went to the Aeroméxico ticket office to enquire about a ticket to Oaxaca the next day. Fortunately, they did have a seat available on the early flight. However, during the previous 2 weeks the volcano Chichonal, a few hundred kilometers east of Oaxaca, had erupted three times and volcanic ash had been deposited on the airport’s runways and ramps. Even though a major cleaning operation had been in place, Aeroméxico couldn’t guarantee the flight would be able to land there the next day. However the flight was scheduled to continue, after its stop in Oaxaca, to Tapachula, close to the border with Guatemala. In case we couldn’t land at Oaxaca the flight would go straight to Tapachula and buses would be available for the eight hour ride to Oaxaca. Since I would be going to Tapachula anyway I gave it a try and booked the ticket.
So, early on Friday I found myself on DC-9-32 N1003U and it was only when we taxied out that the captain announced that that indeed we would be skipping Oaxaca. Thus after 70 minutes of air-time we landed at Tapachula at 10:08 where a hot and very moist air filled the cabin once the doors had been opened. Welcome to the tropics. By that time I had made up my mind and decided not to go to Oaxaca and run the risk of not getting ramp access, given the ashes, and not getting a bus out of there since it was Good Friday. Less than one hour later a taxi had brought me to the border with Guatemala.
Thus ended my first proper acquaintance with Latin America. It had been a great and thrilling week with lots of interesting aircraft and experiences. Many more would follow during the next 12 weeks, but that’s a different chapter.
©2022 Peter van Oostrum
Thus ended my first proper acquaintance with Latin America. It had been a great and thrilling week with lots of interesting aircraft and experiences. Many more would follow during the next 12 weeks, but that’s a different chapter.
©2022 Peter van Oostrum
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